Amidst Ruins and Hippies of Hampi

I faintly remember my last visit to Hampi which dates back to 2000. It was one of the very few family trips I went crumpled inside a Maruti 800 which broke down many a times on our way to Hampi.

I planned to visit historical Hampi again in DEC 2015. After arriving at Hospet in bus at 8 am I took an auto for 150 rs after little bargaining to go to Hampi. It was approximately 20 minutes ride. During the ride auto driver suggested places to stay, see and pushed me to hire his auto for any trips around Hampi. Every auto driver there doubles up as a guide. 500 rs for half a day & he would cover most of the places. That’s the price almost all the drivers charge. Unfortunately I had come to Hampi to spend time in Virupapur Gadde also called Hippie Island. I would rather say Hampi is divided into 2 which is separated by Tungabadra river. One side is the Ruins of Hampi & the other Hippies of Hampi(Virupapur Gadde). Though during the peak seasons backpackers storm this area, Virupapur Gadde is very rural in heart.

River crossing by boat

I got down from auto and walked towards the river to take a boat to hippie island paying 10 rs (20rs with luggage). It merely takes 2 minutes to cross. I climbed few steps and there I was flocked by locals to rent out cycle/moped/bike. It was a vibrant mud road that stretches around 2 kms  filled with  cafes, guesthouses, rental and artistic shops where mostly backpackers are seen during peak season. You find them chilling in cafes, smoking up, riding mopeds, walking around with hoopla or simply doing nothing. Other side of the road has open paddy fields.

I walked down to Shanthi Guesthouse as I had booked my stay there. It has many huts with a swing bed outside. After quick check-in, I soon pulled out sunscreen from my bag pack that I had bought for this trip. Hampi without a sunscreen is a big no for me. To satisfy my empty stomach I stepped out to eat. Went to German bakery at the beginning of the road and their breakfast platter with ginger tea was the best I must say.

Shanthi Guest House
Shanthi Guesthouse

As I sat there sipping tea what next I thought. Now I had a choice to cross the river and take a glimpse of the vast ruins of Vijayanagara empire by walk/cycle/auto under the blazing sun. Hampi town is UNESCO World Heritage Site and was one of the richest and largest cities in the world during its time where every structure here has a wonderful story behind it. But I decided to stay amidst hippies for I had come to Hampi with a mind to just relax. I rented a TVS for 150 rs a day + filled fuel for 90 rs and along with my friend went for a ride. One can visit Hanuman temple or go towards river for a dip.

Without a second thought I went to Sanapur Lake. As we drove past I could see locals swimming , bunch of  foreigners cliff jumping and many foreign tourists riding around in mopeds. Not having to wear helmet gave me the sense of freedom as we drove around in unknown roads, between the paddy fields though sometimes I felt I could run faster than my TVS.

Back at Shanthi cafe in the evening I laid down on the mattress along with few travelers watching  sunset which turned the paddy fields gold. My 9-6  job  has always kept me indoors & I couldn’t recall the last time I had watched a sunset for this long. I chatted with Rose while she sat with me with a map to figure out her next 2 months of travel around south India.

I then strolled the street, peeped into every shop and tried many cafes. The one that caught my eyes was Gauthami cafe with it’s amazing wall hangings which were for sale. Dim lit, smell of the weed, laid down atmosphere, good music and the paintings all brought the place alive. Almost all the guesthouses have gigs or play movie in the night during peak season. As I walked past Nargis Cafe the cheer was even more louder.

Day 2 began with ginger lime tea. I then stepped out on street and this time it was breakfast at Hema’s followed by renting a TVS along with my friend.

We went prepared today with extra pair of clothes for swim. After reaching lakeside, for 200 rs we took a coracle where the boatman took us to a secluded place for swim away from anybody’s reach.  After a good swim and few stops for clicks I was back in one of the cafe lying on mattress on the floor with low tables set up.

I had booked my return bus ticket to Bangalore from Hospet for 11 pm today. I decided to pack my bag and leave the hippie island by 5.30 pm reason being the boats operate 6am-6pm between the ruins of Hampi & hippie island. So I crossed to the other side and was told the buses from Hampi to Hospet  operate till 8 pm. Now I had more than 2 hours time in hand @ Hampi. Knowing that the sunset from top of Virupaksha Temple isn’t something to miss when at Hampi, I climbed up and found solace watching the sunset along with many others.

I walked down to visit the only functional Virupaksha temple before going to Mango Tree for dinner. Mango tree serves varieties of cuisines and I would recommend it to anyone going there. It was 8 pm by then and I took a local bus to Hospet for 13 rs. I had a wonderful trip chilling at cafes, eating and drinking to my hearts content, watching sunset, strolling the paddy fields and driving around in those almost empty roads not having to worry about anything.

Also Read: The complete Varkala Travel Guide

hampi sunset


>Dont forget to carry sunscreen, shades, hat to save yourself from scorching sun and enough cash that lasts whole trip

> Boats to Hippie island operate 6am – 6pm only

> There are plenty of guesthouses available to book on the spot( During peak season I recommended you book in advance)

> Beer & Nonveg is available in hippie island. Carry cards/board games if you plan to spend more time in the island.

> Have at least one meal in Mango Tree

>Start early in the morning if you want to visit the ruins as the heat can tire you out easily during the day

Note: Recently Forest Dept authorities have demolished few cafe’s and home stays in Virupapur Gadde.

Hampi river

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6 thoughts on “Amidst Ruins and Hippies of Hampi

  1. Hampi was only a heritage land for me…. through this blog found this place more interesting… Will definitely visit Hampi following this post….

    1. Even i was surprised to see the other side of Hampi filled with cafes and backpackers

  2. Well written.. been there two months back- revisited old memories. visit my blog too and share your thoughts 🙂

    1. Thanks. Sure

  3. SPlendid narration. Totally enjoyed reading about your hampi experience and the photographs are AWESOME too. i wonder whats the problem, i can only type in caps as a comment. 🙁

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